Posts Tagged ‘Electronics’
Arduino CW decoder – Conclusion
August 13th, 2015 | 
Author: A few days have past since I last blogged about the CW decoder. Since then I moved the project forward and created a Vero version which worked well. It was based on the idea of a shield and plugged in on the top of the Arduino UNO. I added a reset switch, and tried the kit using a Adafruit Mic amp. Adding this – I needed to expose the 3.3v to the microphone, and in doing so I created a really great little piece of kit. At this stage I was formulating what I wanted the finished kit to consist of. And here is a breakdown of my immediate requirements :
1. Line in or Microphone input
2. Easy to read display – all boxed neatly
3. An LED that shows the Zero beat
4. Easily accessible Reset Switch
5. Powered from a 12v supply.
I did want to create a usable PCB, something that could be used by a student or someone wanting to build the kit. So using the Fritzing application I set about laying out a circuit board.
This was my very first attempt at creating a PCB , so nerves were a wee bit on the tense side. I also wanted to box the project, so my rationale was to find a box first to work out the physical dimensions of the finished project.
As with the Vero Version – I created a layout that would fit on top of the UNO.
After submitting the design, and waiting a week I managed to get hold of 3 boards. They looked awesome. All white and exactly how I laid them out.
I did make 2 small errors on these boards. The first issue was sitting the capacitors a bit too close to the LM567 IC. That is an easy fix for the next version. But the 2nd and more serious issue is I forgot to ground 2 caps. They were floating and in parallel. I did fix this by attaching a wire to ground from one of the caps. That solved the issue, and I have already corrected the fault for the next batch of boards.
2 further observations of the boards & the project as a whole have highlighted 2 further improvements to the project. The location of the pins for the display / reset switch and audio OUT should be on the other side of the board. That would make a far better layout. Also adding in an audio oscillator / switch & plug to insert a key on the oscillator – then feed the output to the Arduino would immediately mean this kit could be used as a practice oscillator too. – that would show the letters as you transmit them out.
So here is a review of the project so far, and what I intend to do with the project going forward.
1. Line in or Microphone input
2. Easy to read display – all boxed neatly
3. An LED that shows the Zero beat
4. Easily accessible Reset Switch
5. Powered from a 12v supply.
I did want to create a usable PCB, something that could be used by a student or someone wanting to build the kit. So using the Fritzing application I set about laying out a circuit board.
As with the Vero Version – I created a layout that would fit on top of the UNO.
After submitting the design, and waiting a week I managed to get hold of 3 boards. They looked awesome. All white and exactly how I laid them out.
I did make 2 small errors on these boards. The first issue was sitting the capacitors a bit too close to the LM567 IC. That is an easy fix for the next version. But the 2nd and more serious issue is I forgot to ground 2 caps. They were floating and in parallel. I did fix this by attaching a wire to ground from one of the caps. That solved the issue, and I have already corrected the fault for the next batch of boards.
2 further observations of the boards & the project as a whole have highlighted 2 further improvements to the project. The location of the pins for the display / reset switch and audio OUT should be on the other side of the board. That would make a far better layout. Also adding in an audio oscillator / switch & plug to insert a key on the oscillator – then feed the output to the Arduino would immediately mean this kit could be used as a practice oscillator too. – that would show the letters as you transmit them out.
So here is a review of the project so far, and what I intend to do with the project going forward.
Arduino CW decoder – Conclusion
A few days have past since I last blogged about the CW decoder. Since then I moved the project forward and created a Vero version which worked well. It was based on the idea of a shield and plugged in on the top of the Arduino UNO. I added a reset switch, and tried the kit using a Adafruit Mic amp. Adding this – I needed to expose the 3.3v to the microphone, and in doing so I created a really great little piece of kit. At this stage I was formulating what I wanted the finished kit to consist of. And here is a breakdown of my immediate requirements :
1. Line in or Microphone input
2. Easy to read display – all boxed neatly
3. An LED that shows the Zero beat
4. Easily accessible Reset Switch
5. Powered from a 12v supply.
I did want to create a usable PCB, something that could be used by a student or someone wanting to build the kit. So using the Fritzing application I set about laying out a circuit board.
This was my very first attempt at creating a PCB , so nerves were a wee bit on the tense side. I also wanted to box the project, so my rationale was to find a box first to work out the physical dimensions of the finished project.
As with the Vero Version – I created a layout that would fit on top of the UNO.
After submitting the design, and waiting a week I managed to get hold of 3 boards. They looked awesome. All white and exactly how I laid them out.
I did make 2 small errors on these boards. The first issue was sitting the capacitors a bit too close to the LM567 IC. That is an easy fix for the next version. But the 2nd and more serious issue is I forgot to ground 2 caps. They were floating and in parallel. I did fix this by attaching a wire to ground from one of the caps. That solved the issue, and I have already corrected the fault for the next batch of boards.
2 further observations of the boards & the project as a whole have highlighted 2 further improvements to the project. The location of the pins for the display / reset switch and audio OUT should be on the other side of the board. That would make a far better layout. Also adding in an audio oscillator / switch & plug to insert a key on the oscillator – then feed the output to the Arduino would immediately mean this kit could be used as a practice oscillator too. – that would show the letters as you transmit them out.
So here is a review of the project so far, and what I intend to do with the project going forward.
1. Line in or Microphone input
2. Easy to read display – all boxed neatly
3. An LED that shows the Zero beat
4. Easily accessible Reset Switch
5. Powered from a 12v supply.
I did want to create a usable PCB, something that could be used by a student or someone wanting to build the kit. So using the Fritzing application I set about laying out a circuit board.
As with the Vero Version – I created a layout that would fit on top of the UNO.
After submitting the design, and waiting a week I managed to get hold of 3 boards. They looked awesome. All white and exactly how I laid them out.
I did make 2 small errors on these boards. The first issue was sitting the capacitors a bit too close to the LM567 IC. That is an easy fix for the next version. But the 2nd and more serious issue is I forgot to ground 2 caps. They were floating and in parallel. I did fix this by attaching a wire to ground from one of the caps. That solved the issue, and I have already corrected the fault for the next batch of boards.
2 further observations of the boards & the project as a whole have highlighted 2 further improvements to the project. The location of the pins for the display / reset switch and audio OUT should be on the other side of the board. That would make a far better layout. Also adding in an audio oscillator / switch & plug to insert a key on the oscillator – then feed the output to the Arduino would immediately mean this kit could be used as a practice oscillator too. – that would show the letters as you transmit them out.
So here is a review of the project so far, and what I intend to do with the project going forward.
CW decoder – The Arduino
This is arguably the simplest part of the project. As mentioned Budd Churchward had created a series of videos on how he wrote the Sketch, created a PCB and published his code. (Budd's Sketch is available here)I simply downloaded the sketch and uploaded it to the Arduino. Well almost.
I did actually make a couple of changes to Budds sketch. As I mentioned I wanted to create a buildable project that students can understand the radio, electronics and the software element of this project.
I created a couple of functions that simply look for a LOW on 2 pins. If this exists the Arduino loads a debug function where it writes out some text to the screen, and flashes an LED. This is an important step for the build project I have in mind, as I want the students to build a bit then test a bit etc. For those who have seen the RSGB Century PSK receiver - and the instructions I wrote to accompany the project, you will instantly know what I mean.
I also included a write out to the Serial port the serial address of the I2C display. And finally add the I2C libraries to enable to I2C display to be used.
Another alteration was to create an auto reset function where if the Arduino cannot resolve 10 characters in succession, it calls the auto reset method, and simply reboots the Arduino.
That’s it. If you didn’t want to change any of the code, I would simply grab Budds latest version and use that. It works perfectly fine. Connecting the circuit again couldn’t have been easier. I took the output from Pin 8 of the LM567, and installed it onto PIN 8 of the Arduino.
Here is the board and Arduino working on the 1st attempt of connecting it all together.
That’s it. However I didn’t want to stop there. So I made some changes and improvements on a Vero board version. I also looked into finalising the Circuit on a PCB. I will cover more of this in an upcoming blog post. and how the new version is looking.
PIXIE 2 QRP Transceiver build
Its been a busy year so far. In fact my radio activities have really suffered. But here is a quick update on a recent project I have undertaken.
I decided to build one of the PIXIE 2 kits that are available from eBay for £3.19 including shipping. At that cost – how could you turn up the opportunity?
The kit arrived in just a couple of days, and I was delighted when I finally had some free time to build the kit. I videoed the kit build, and it only took around 3 hours including the filming. If the camera hadn’t been out, and I was so inclined – im pretty sure this kit could be built within 60 mins.
Anyway here is the video. I hope you enjoy it, if you found it useful or inspirational – leave a comment and go buy a kit !
I will be taking this new kit out and trying to get a QSO. i hear it might be an uphill struggle. But i really must give it a go.
PIXIE 2 QRP Transceiver build
Its been a busy year so far. In fact my radio activities have really suffered. But here is a quick update on a recent project I have undertaken.
I decided to build one of the PIXIE 2 kits that are available from eBay for £3.19 including shipping. At that cost – how could you turn up the opportunity?
The kit arrived in just a couple of days, and I was delighted when I finally had some free time to build the kit. I videoed the kit build, and it only took around 3 hours including the filming. If the camera hadn’t been out, and I was so inclined – im pretty sure this kit could be built within 60 mins.
Anyway here is the video. I hope you enjoy it, if you found it useful or inspirational – leave a comment and go buy a kit !
I will be taking this new kit out and trying to get a QSO. i hear it might be an uphill struggle. But i really must give it a go.
HackRF on Sky Loop Antenna and Talented Balun
In this video I put up a 20 meter band Delta Sky Loop Antenna with lighting arrestor to use with my HackRF One software defined radio.
I then demonstrate good reception from all over the USA as far away as 1500 miles using SDR Console software version 2 by SDR-Radio
I was able to use CW, AM, FM (narrow & wide) modes on HF and VHF without problems. The software is a bit difficult but I cover some tips in the video that worked for me.
My sky loop antenna was ~128feet long tuned for 1.2:1 SWR at 14.07 MHz
Hoping to use the HackRF for PSK and JT9 at 30 mW TX
<video>
Amazon store links:
100 ft RG8X COAX CABLE for CB / Ham Radio w/ PL259 Connectors
LIGHTNING ARRESTOR for CB or Ham Base Antennas
MIG Welding Wire, 4043, .030, Spool
Talented Balun by James Sanders (AG6IF)
Search for AG6IF on http://www.qrz.com
SDRConsole (V2)
Arduino Frequency Display For Kenwood TS-520S HF Ham Radio PART 5
This is PART 5 of the project “Arduino Frequency Display For a Kenwood TS-520S HF Ham Radio”.
Steve Leander from www.kv6o.com picked up where I left off in part 4 and completed the project.
He designed a complete DG5 emulator Arduino shield starting from the prototype circuit and adding 5v power regulation and support of a LCD display. Steve completed the software and shared the BOM list, parts purchase links, circuit drawings and his code (here). Thank you Steve for finishing the DG5 emulator board and Arduino code!
Many thanks also to Larry from YouTube Channel “RadioHamGuy” for helping with testing.
Larry makes many great videos about ham and CB radios.
Links to all parts: (PART 1), (PART 2), (PART 3), (PART 4), (PART 5)
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