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See Part 2 of this report.

Ofu Island is not easily accessible, so it was a key decision on whether to include it as part of the trip. The more I read about American Samoa, the more I noticed that many of the best photos were from Ofu Island. It has a huge beach that stretches along the south side of the island, located within the national park. Not only that, Ofu has an attractive SOTA summit with an excellent view. So, yeah, we needed to go there.

Getting There

Flights from Pago Pago to Ofu are scheduled for Tuesday and Thursday mornings on Samoa Airways. We wanted more than two days on Ofu, so we arrived on a Thursday with a return flight on the following Tuesday. These are small planes with strict weight limits on baggage: 5 kg (11 lbs) for one carry-on bag and 15 kg (33 lbs) for one checked bag. The airline weighs everything and everybody going onto the flight. You can pay for extra luggage, but you risk having it left behind for a later flight if your flight happens to be overweight.

We opted to take only the essentials to Ofu, repacking our gear to fit into just a few bags. Only the lightweight SOTA station went with us, along with snorkel gear and minimal clothing. Everything else was stored at the Tradewinds Hotel.

Lodging

There are limited lodging options on Ofu. We chose to stay at the Vaoto Lodge, right next to the airstrip. The rooms at the lodge are very basic but do have air conditioners. There are no restaurants on the island. The lodge offers a shared kitchen for its guests to prepare their own meals, as well as a limited but adequate selection of groceries for purchase. This may not work for everyone, but Joyce was able to come up with some excellent meals for us.

Four people were staying at the lodge when we were there, including us. One person was there to work on a government-sponsored project. The other was a tourist from New Zealand. So there were probably only three tourists on Ofu at that time.

The best information I found concerning Ofu is: The Ultimate Guide to Ofu Island, American Samoa. This was very helpful, but also double-check the details concerning lodging and airline flights, as things do change with time. Based on the advice of the locals, we concluded that Tumu Mountain was our only SOTA option on Ofu. Sunuitao Peak and Piumafua Mountain (on Olosega Island, connected to Ofu by a bridge) are not considered hikeable.

Tumu Mountain (KH8/MI-003)
The trail to the summit is 3 miles one-way, with 1500 feet of elevation gain. This trail used to be a road, starts out wide and narrows as the elevation increases. It is overgrown in spots, and there is a rope assist in one difficult spot. This video provides a good overview of the climb. This trail is not in the national park.

Our host at Vaoto Lodge dropped us off at the trailhead and picked us up afterward. The hike begins in some 18-inch-high brush that includes some plants with stickers. I wore shorts and accumulated quite a few scratches on my legs. If I do this hike again, I would start with long pants or gaiters and switch to shorts at the first trail marker, about one-half mile up the trail. This trail marker indicates a left turn that starts the climb up the side of the mountain. As the map shows, there is a big switchback that keeps the slope of the trail reasonable.

Near the summit, we noted a sign indicating a trail to the left for the viewpoint, but we continued to the summit. The actual summit is covered by dense vegetation, so we stopped where the trail faded out, labeled “Operating Location” on the map, within the activation zone. There is a small radio installation here. To get to the actual summit would require a serious bushwhack through the tropical forest.

We set up the SOTA station using our smaller antenna mast (fishing pole) and fired up the IC-705 on 17m FT8. Conditions were not great, but we both worked four stations on HF plus each other on VHF/UHF. We were running behind schedule for our pickup time, so we did not operate any longer than necessary.

On our descent, we took the side trail over to the viewpoint, which was fantastic. This is the best photo we took in American Samoa. We are accustomed to hiking in the Rocky Mountains, where reaching a high summit always provides a great view. Tropical forests are a lot different…the vegetation may not allow you to see anything of interest on a summit. Finding a good viewpoint can be challenging.

POTA (AS-0001)

We found a nice spot on Ofu Beach (-14.17776, -169.65428), about a one-mile walk from Vaoto Lodge that is a great place to snorkel and operate ham radio. There is a little shelter there that provides some protection from rain. We did seven POTA activations from this location using the smaller SOTA station with 10 watts. These QSOs were mainly on 15m and 17m, using digital transmissions (FT8 via the iPhone app and the IC-705).

We were supposed to leave Ofu on Tuesday morning, but our flight was delayed until the afternoon. We were aware that flights to/from Ofu can be delayed or cancelled, and we planned some flexibility into our schedule to mitigate this risk. We still made it to Pago Pago that day, returning to the Tradewinds Hotel. After our wonderful stay on Ofu, this felt like a welcome return to civilization.

We were delighted to have visited Ofu Island and highly recommend it. However, it did add six days to the trip, so it may not work for travelers with a more limited schedule.

Wrap Up On the Whole Trip

This concludes our KH8 trip report. Joyce and I had a fantastic time in American Samoa and enjoyed the ham radio aspect of the trip. The only stations we worked on VHF/UHF were each other, which was not a big surprise, but still disappointing. Oh, well, I guess that’s why we have access to the HF spectrum.

Some additional travel notes here:
K0NR Guide to American Samoa

73 Bob KH8/K0NR

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