Posts Tagged ‘kenwood’

The Last of the Hybrids – Kenwood TS-830s

 Hybrid Goodness


A good friend dropped off a radio and mic that he had received from a SK.  It is a Kenwood TS-830s, which according to the serial number was manufactured December 1980.  

The TS-830s was the last of the Hybrid's manufactured by Kenwood.


The Golden Age of the Hybrid: Best of Both Worlds?


If you've spent any time scouring the used market for a "new-to-you" HF rig, you’ve likely bumped into the Hybrids. For those of us who love the glow of a filament but appreciate the reliability of solid-state components, these rigs represent a very specific, nostalgic era of amateur radio engineering.

So, what exactly makes a rig a "Hybrid"?

It’s all about the hand-off between technologies. These transceivers aren't "all-tube" in the boatanchor sense, nor are they fully solid-state like the modern SDRs sitting on our desks today. Instead, they used semiconductors for the heavy lifting in the low-level circuits—think oscillators and IF stages—while saving the vacuum tubes for the "muscle."

The Magic Formula: 12BY7 + 2x 6146B
Almost every classic hybrid followed a predictable, battle-tested recipe. If you pop the hood, you’re almost guaranteed to find this exact lineup:

The Driver: A single 12BY7 tube.

The Finals: A pair of 6146s.

This combination was the "Goldilocks" setup for the 1970s ham. It reliably pumped out about 100 watts—plenty of PEP to work the world from a modest backyard wire.

Why the 6146?


The 6146 wasn't just common; it was "The Finals Tube." It was rugged, relatively inexpensive, and offered great linearity. It’s the reason so many of these rigs are still on the air today.  NOS tubes are still available for less than $70/each.

You’ll find this exact "Hybrid" DNA across the most legendary gear of the era:

The Kenwood Line: From the TS-520 through the TS-820 and 830S (widely considered the pinnacle of the hybrid age).

The Heathkit "Hot Water" Series: The ubiquitous HW-100 and HW-101.

The SB-Series: The refined SB-101 and SB-102 "Green Giants."

There is just something satisfying about the "warm-up" period and the manual "Tune & Load" process that a modern rig can't replicate. It forces you to actually interact with your station. Plus, let's be honest—the smell of tubes in the shack is worth at least 3dB of "feel-good" gain.


Image of Finals from another site

Do old electrolytic capacitors always need replacement?


If you’ve spent any time on the forums or at a local hamfest, you’ve heard the mantra: "Friends don't let friends power up vintage gear without a recap." While there is some wisdom there, if we are being honest with our soldering irons, not all "old" capacitors are created equal.

In fact, there’s a strong argument to be made that the electrolytic caps found in a 1980 Kenwood TS-830s are actually more reliable than the junk found in 1990s consumer electronics.

Here is the breakdown of why "older" often meant "sturdier" in the world of vintage RF gear.

1. The "Capacitor Plague" of the 90s

The primary reason 70s and 80s caps get a bad rap is that people lump them in with the "Capacitor Plague" of the late 90s and early 2000s. During that era, a massive industrial espionage blunder led to a faulty electrolyte formula being used across the industry.

These 90s caps didn't just drift in value; they were "time bombs" that would bulge, leak corrosive fluid, and fail catastrophically within just a few years. By contrast, the Japanese-made caps from the 70s and early 80s (like those from Nichicon or United Chemi-Con) were over-engineered and built with stable, well-understood chemistry.

2. Physical Size and Heat Dissipation

In the 70s and 80s, we weren't trying to fit a transceiver into a pocket. Components were physically larger. A 1000µF capacitor from 1980 is often twice the size of a modern equivalent with the same rating.

Surface Area: Larger cans dissipate heat better.

Electrolyte Volume: More physical space meant more electrolyte fluid. Since the primary failure mode of an electrolytic is the fluid drying out over decades, having more "juice" to start with gave these old components a much longer runway.

3. Operating Margins

Back in the "Hybrid" glory days, engineers weren't shaving every penny off the Bill of Materials. If a circuit needed a 25V capacitor, you’d often find a 35V or 50V part in there just for the headroom.

Modern manufacturing in the 90s moved toward "just enough" specs. When you run a capacitor right at its voltage or temperature limit, its lifespan drops exponentially. Those beefy 70s components were often "loafing" along, which is why you can still find 50-year-old Heathkits that hold a steady voltage.

The "Don't Be Reckless" Disclaimer

While those 70s and early 80s caps were built like tanks, physics eventually wins. Even the best electrolyte will eventually dry out or the rubber seals will perish.

If you're bringing a rig out of a 20-year slumber, don't just "flip the switch." Use a Variac to slowly reform the capacitors. 

That being said, my friend had already purchased replacement caps so I went ahead and replaced the 500V HV caps because the originals showed an arc-over and spattered solder from sometime in the past.

Original HV caps

See the solder splash and arc-over on the lead to the left 500v cap?

Replaced

Replaced with modern caps

When you go to replace these old caps you realize they don't make 'em like they used to. The old beefy "can" capacitors had four tall, sturdy solder posts. Kenwood designers used those extra lugs as convenient tie-points, daisy-chaining multiple wires for the high-voltage rails and ground returns directly onto the capacitor itself.

But the modern replacement is a "snap-in" style cap with two tiny, stubby pins designed for a PCB, not a bundle of 18-gauge hookup wire.

Trying to cram three or four vintage wires onto one miniature modern post was not fun.  I ended up using the leads of the bleed resistor as solder posts.

Finally on the air after a rookie mistake


After replacing the caps I tested the voltage at the caps and all seemed good.  I buttoned it up and attempted to tune into a dummy load while watching an amp meter to see if the rig was drawing the prescribed current... and found that I had no bias current

I freaked out!  No bias means the tubes run wide open and turn into oven elements.    

I took everything back apart and started tracing the bias circuit. It simply had no power. I calmed down and thought "How could replacing the HV caps have crippled the bias current?".  Well it shouldn't.  Then I vaguely recalled brushing a switch on the back of the radio as I had turned it over.  What is that switch?  The manual calls it the "Screen Grid Switch" and apparently it's used when neutralizing the tubes, or some such hollow-state magic that I never learned to do.  What I did learn is that if it's switched off, you ain't got no bias current, or any other current needed to test transmit.  

Whew! Panic averted.

Operation

The "Tune-Up" Dance

If you’re coming from the world of modern "no-tune" solid-state rigs, the front panel of a vintage hybrid will have some controls with unfamiliar names like DRIVE, LOAD, PLATE, CARRIER, etc. Before you throw your callsign out there, you have to perform the "Tune, Dip, and Load" ritual.

This isn't just for nostalgia; it’s about matching the high impedance of those vacuum tubes to your 50-ohm antenna system and bringing the tank circuit into resonance. Skip this step, and you aren't just risking "band splatter"—you’re asking those precious 6146B finals to cook themselves to death.

The Warm-Up: Low Power into the Dummy Load

Never tune up "live" on the air if you can help it. I always start by switching over to a dummy load. After a good look at the manual, I set the mode to TUNE, the meter to ALC, and set the CARRIER knob to about a quarter turn.

With the DRIVE knob centered, I flipped the switch to SEND. I peaked the DRIVE and tweaked the CARRIER until the meter stayed happily within the ALC range, then flipped back to REC. This gets our low-level stages talking to the finals without stressing the tubes.

The "Dip": Finding Resonance

Next comes the most satisfying part of hybrid operation: Dipping the Plate.

  1. Set the meter to IP (Plate Current).

  2. Pre-set the PLATE knob to the segment of the band I’m targeting.

  3. Flip to SEND and carefully sweep the PLATE control until the needle "dips" to its lowest point.

This "dip" is the signal that your circuit is in resonance. You want to center the needle right at the bottom of that valley and flip back to REC quickly—tubes don't like sitting in a non-resonant state for more than a few seconds!

Putting "Fire in the Wire"

Now that we’re resonant in low-power mode, it’s time to give those 6146s their legs. I switched the mode from TUNE to CW to get the full HV (High Voltage) on the plates.

Keep an eye on that plate current! You want to stay at or below 265mA. Use the CARRIER knob to keep the drive power in check.

I noticed something interesting during this stage: the LOAD peaked at a different spot in full power than it did in the low-power TUNE mode. This required another quick "re-dip" of the PLATE. Some folks say a shifting peak like that points to a "soft" 12BY7 driver tube, but since I’m seeing a solid 100 Watts out on 40m and 30m, I’m not ready to convict the driver just yet.

It’s quite a process compared to pushing a button on a modern rig, but there’s a soul to this machine that makes every contact feel earned.


On-Air Performance and Operating Impressions


Voice Operations on 40m

I started by making several Phone contacts on the 40-meter band. Audio reports were positive, and the rig stayed stable on frequency. Before getting on the air, I spent some time balancing the gain between the D-104 microphone and the radio’s internal mic gain. To do this, I monitored the meter in ALC mode while watching the RF output on my dummy load to ensure I wasn't over-driving the gain.

CW Operations on 30m

Moving up to 30 meters for some CW, I sent out a single call—primarily to check my frequency on the Reverse Beacon Network (RBN). I was immediately answered by KB6UN. We had a productive 25-minute ragchew discussing antennas, hamfests, and vintage gear. The TS-830S performed admirably throughout the contact.


Operating Oddities

While the TS-830S is feature-rich compared to my Ten-Tec Century/21 or Heathkit HW-101, it has several design quirks that take some adjustment.

CW Offset and Tuning

On a modern transceiver, the VFO display typically indicates your actual transmit frequency. On the TS-830S, the transmit frequency is offset by 800 Hz from the indicated frequency. This may be common in older gear, but without a digital VFO on my other vintage rigs, the offset is much more apparent here.

Zero-Beating Without a Filter

The sidetone on this rig is fixed at 800 Hz. While you can use the RIT to adjust the listening frequency, you must be careful not to do so until you have zero-beat the other station. Unlike my modern rigs, there is no "spot" function or visual indicator for zero-beating.

On my HW-101, the sharp 250 Hz CW filter helps peak the signal when you are on frequency. Since this TS-830S lacks a narrow CW filter, I have to rely on a manual tone-match:

  1. Switch the gain knob to turn off break-in mode.

  2. Hold down the key to hear the internal 800 Hz sidetone.

  3. Match the pitch of the incoming signal to that sidetone.

Interestingly, the RF meter peaks when the station is not at a zero-beat, so the needle cannot be used as a tuning aid. Additionally, since this radio predates built-in keyers, you’ll need an external unit or a mechanical key. The jack is wired for a standard "tip = dit" configuration.

The AF/Sidetone Conflict

My primary complaint involves the sidetone volume. In this design, the sidetone level is tied directly to the AF (audio frequency) gain control. I prefer to operate with the RF gain turned down and the AF gain turned up to manage band noise, but this makes the sidetone deafeningly loud during transmission.

Currently, I have to manually turn the AF gain down before every transmission and back up to listen. I am planning to research a modification to separate the sidetone level from the main volume control to make CW operation more practical.

Filtering and Narrow-Band Operation

This transceiver predates the era of Digital Signal Processing (DSP), relying entirely on analog circuitry and crystal filters. While the TS-830S offered optional crystal filters for CW, this particular unit is only equipped with the standard SSB crystal filter. There is no digital noise reduction or sharp audio peaking for CW signals.

What this rig does provide—which was likely a novel feature at the time—is a Variable Bandwidth Tuning (VBT) control. This allows you to linearly narrow the IF bandwidth down to approximately 500 Hz with a 6 dB slope. It is certainly not "sharp" by modern standards; even with the bandwidth dialed all the way down, I can still hear stations within 2 kHz of my frequency.

To help manage interference, the radio includes:

  • Adjustable Notch Filter: Useful for knocking down a specific nearby CW carrier.

  • IF Shift: This allows you to move the passband relative to the signal to further reject adjacent QRM.

While these controls are effective for an analog design, they are a far cry from a modern rig like my Yaesu FT-DX10. On the Yaesu, I can achieve a razor-sharp focus on a single CW signal and essentially make the rest of the band disappear. On the hybrid, you are always operating with a much wider "window" into the RF spectrum.

The things I like


Thermal management and fan noise

One thing I immediately noticed about the TS-830S is how quiet the fan is. Despite the fact that the vacuum tubes generate a significant amount of heat—essentially operating at "oven" levels—the fan is variable speed and remains very quiet even when moving a large volume of air.

I have complained about the fan noise on my FT-DX10 numerous times. Operating the Kenwood reminds me of the design choices Yaesu has made with their modern rigs; simply mounting a standard muffin fan on the back is a far less sophisticated solution compared to the integrated thermal design found in this older equipment.


Sound

The TS-830S is technically a dual-conversion transceiver utilizing two intermediate frequencies: 8.83 MHz and 455 kHz. However, its architecture differs from the traditional "Collins type" designs, like the older TS-520. In the TS-830S, the bandwidth of both IF stages is narrowed simultaneously during VBT operation. Because of this specific implementation, it essentially functions like a single-conversion transceiver with an 8.83 MHz IF.

Despite the lack of modern filtering, the receiver is very pleasant to listen to. In fact, other than the volume control issue I mentioned previously, the sidetone on this rig sounds far better than the raspy, digitized sidetone on my Yaesu FT-DX10.

The audio out of the case is excellent.  It has a very good speaker that is well isolated, and can go to high volumes without distorting.  The case itself has felt / damping materials where edges mate with other panels, to reduce resonance.  It is nicely designed. Speaking of the case itself, it is thick metal.  Not car ramp thick, but sturdy, not bendy.

There is a definite appeal to switching off the modern SDR rigs and their "super-filtered" audio. Sometimes it’s worth returning to a simpler design that down-converts RF to the audible range without sending the signal through light-years of digital processing before it reaches your ears.

Little things


Having a built-in power supply is nice, especially since it would require a multi-voltage external supply like my HW-101 if it was not built in.

The controls are well laid out.  After just a couple minutes of operation everything fell to hand without searching for the control

Lastly, the VFO moves with the perfect amount of resistance. For a radio that is 46 years old that doesn't appear to have visited a service center (there are no service stickers), to have a reduction drive geared VFO that operates this smoothly, again speaks to the quality of manufacture of these old Kenwoods.


Conclusions


I plan to spend more time with the rig.  Hopefully, I can record some QSOs so that folks who began operating with more modern rigs can see what it's like to get on the air with these beauties. 

They don't make them like they used to.

This is NOT a QRP rig, so I won't offer my normal "Lower your power and raise your expectations", but I will say "Sometimes traveling the older paths leads you to a new revelation"

That's all for now

73 
AA4OO Rich

The Last of the Hybrids – Kenwood TS-830s

 Hybrid Goodness


A good friend dropped off a radio and mic that he had received from a SK.  It is a Kenwood TS-830s, which according to the serial number was manufactured December 1980.  

The TS-830s was the last of the Hybrid's manufactured by Kenwood.


The Golden Age of the Hybrid: Best of Both Worlds?


If you've spent any time scouring the used market for a "new-to-you" HF rig, you’ve likely bumped into the Hybrids. For those of us who love the glow of a filament but appreciate the reliability of solid-state components, these rigs represent a very specific, nostalgic era of amateur radio engineering.

So, what exactly makes a rig a "Hybrid"?

It’s all about the hand-off between technologies. These transceivers aren't "all-tube" in the boatanchor sense, nor are they fully solid-state like the modern SDRs sitting on our desks today. Instead, they used semiconductors for the heavy lifting in the low-level circuits—think oscillators and IF stages—while saving the vacuum tubes for the "muscle."

The Magic Formula: 12BY7 + 2x 6146B
Almost every classic hybrid followed a predictable, battle-tested recipe. If you pop the hood, you’re almost guaranteed to find this exact lineup:

The Driver: A single 12BY7 tube.

The Finals: A pair of 6146s.

This combination was the "Goldilocks" setup for the 1970s ham. It reliably pumped out about 100 watts—plenty of PEP to work the world from a modest backyard wire.

Why the 6146?


The 6146 wasn't just common; it was "The Finals Tube." It was rugged, relatively inexpensive, and offered great linearity. It’s the reason so many of these rigs are still on the air today.  NOS tubes are still available for less than $70/each.

You’ll find this exact "Hybrid" DNA across the most legendary gear of the era:

The Kenwood Line: From the TS-520 through the TS-820 and 830S (widely considered the pinnacle of the hybrid age).

The Heathkit "Hot Water" Series: The ubiquitous HW-100 and HW-101.

The SB-Series: The refined SB-101 and SB-102 "Green Giants."

There is just something satisfying about the "warm-up" period and the manual "Tune & Load" process that a modern rig can't replicate. It forces you to actually interact with your station. Plus, let's be honest—the smell of tubes in the shack is worth at least 3dB of "feel-good" gain.


Image of Finals from another site

Do old electrolytic capacitors always need replacement?


If you’ve spent any time on the forums or at a local hamfest, you’ve heard the mantra: "Friends don't let friends power up vintage gear without a recap." While there is some wisdom there, if we are being honest with our soldering irons, not all "old" capacitors are created equal.

In fact, there’s a strong argument to be made that the electrolytic caps found in a 1980 Kenwood TS-830s are actually more reliable than the junk found in 1990s consumer electronics.

Here is the breakdown of why "older" often meant "sturdier" in the world of vintage RF gear.

1. The "Capacitor Plague" of the 90s

The primary reason 70s and 80s caps get a bad rap is that people lump them in with the "Capacitor Plague" of the late 90s and early 2000s. During that era, a massive industrial espionage blunder led to a faulty electrolyte formula being used across the industry.

These 90s caps didn't just drift in value; they were "time bombs" that would bulge, leak corrosive fluid, and fail catastrophically within just a few years. By contrast, the Japanese-made caps from the 70s and early 80s (like those from Nichicon or United Chemi-Con) were over-engineered and built with stable, well-understood chemistry.

2. Physical Size and Heat Dissipation

In the 70s and 80s, we weren't trying to fit a transceiver into a pocket. Components were physically larger. A 1000µF capacitor from 1980 is often twice the size of a modern equivalent with the same rating.

Surface Area: Larger cans dissipate heat better.

Electrolyte Volume: More physical space meant more electrolyte fluid. Since the primary failure mode of an electrolytic is the fluid drying out over decades, having more "juice" to start with gave these old components a much longer runway.

3. Operating Margins

Back in the "Hybrid" glory days, engineers weren't shaving every penny off the Bill of Materials. If a circuit needed a 25V capacitor, you’d often find a 35V or 50V part in there just for the headroom.

Modern manufacturing in the 90s moved toward "just enough" specs. When you run a capacitor right at its voltage or temperature limit, its lifespan drops exponentially. Those beefy 70s components were often "loafing" along, which is why you can still find 50-year-old Heathkits that hold a steady voltage.

The "Don't Be Reckless" Disclaimer

While those 70s and early 80s caps were built like tanks, physics eventually wins. Even the best electrolyte will eventually dry out or the rubber seals will perish.

If you're bringing a rig out of a 20-year slumber, don't just "flip the switch." Use a Variac to slowly reform the capacitors. 

That being said, my friend had already purchased replacement caps so I went ahead and replaced the 500V HV caps because the originals showed an arc-over and spattered solder from sometime in the past.

Original HV caps

See the solder splash and arc-over on the lead to the left 500v cap?

Replaced

Replaced with modern caps

When you go to replace these old caps you realize they don't make 'em like they used to. The old beefy "can" capacitors had four tall, sturdy solder posts. Kenwood designers used those extra lugs as convenient tie-points, daisy-chaining multiple wires for the high-voltage rails and ground returns directly onto the capacitor itself.

But the modern replacement is a "snap-in" style cap with two tiny, stubby pins designed for a PCB, not a bundle of 18-gauge hookup wire.

Trying to cram three or four vintage wires onto one miniature modern post was not fun.  I ended up using the leads of the bleed resistor as solder posts.

Finally on the air after a rookie mistake


After replacing the caps I tested the voltage at the caps and all seemed good.  I buttoned it up and attempted to tune into a dummy load while watching an amp meter to see if the rig was drawing the prescribed current... and found that I had no bias current

I freaked out!  No bias means the tubes run wide open and turn into oven elements.    

I took everything back apart and started tracing the bias circuit. It simply had no power. I calmed down and thought "How could replacing the HV caps have crippled the bias current?".  Well it shouldn't.  Then I vaguely recalled brushing a switch on the back of the radio as I had turned it over.  What is that switch?  The manual calls it the "Screen Grid Switch" and apparently it's used when neutralizing the tubes, or some such hollow-state magic that I never learned to do.  What I did learn is that if it's switched off, you ain't got no bias current, or any other current needed to test transmit.  

Whew! Panic averted.

Operation

The "Tune-Up" Dance

If you’re coming from the world of modern "no-tune" solid-state rigs, the front panel of a vintage hybrid will have some controls with unfamiliar names like DRIVE, LOAD, PLATE, CARRIER, etc. Before you throw your callsign out there, you have to perform the "Tune, Dip, and Load" ritual.

This isn't just for nostalgia; it’s about matching the high impedance of those vacuum tubes to your 50-ohm antenna system and bringing the tank circuit into resonance. Skip this step, and you aren't just risking "band splatter"—you’re asking those precious 6146B finals to cook themselves to death.

The Warm-Up: Low Power into the Dummy Load

Never tune up "live" on the air if you can help it. I always start by switching over to a dummy load. After a good look at the manual, I set the mode to TUNE, the meter to ALC, and set the CARRIER knob to about a quarter turn.

With the DRIVE knob centered, I flipped the switch to SEND. I peaked the DRIVE and tweaked the CARRIER until the meter stayed happily within the ALC range, then flipped back to REC. This gets our low-level stages talking to the finals without stressing the tubes.

The "Dip": Finding Resonance

Next comes the most satisfying part of hybrid operation: Dipping the Plate.

  1. Set the meter to IP (Plate Current).

  2. Pre-set the PLATE knob to the segment of the band I’m targeting.

  3. Flip to SEND and carefully sweep the PLATE control until the needle "dips" to its lowest point.

This "dip" is the signal that your circuit is in resonance. You want to center the needle right at the bottom of that valley and flip back to REC quickly—tubes don't like sitting in a non-resonant state for more than a few seconds!

Putting "Fire in the Wire"

Now that we’re resonant in low-power mode, it’s time to give those 6146s their legs. I switched the mode from TUNE to CW to get the full HV (High Voltage) on the plates.

Keep an eye on that plate current! You want to stay at or below 265mA. Use the CARRIER knob to keep the drive power in check.

I noticed something interesting during this stage: the LOAD peaked at a different spot in full power than it did in the low-power TUNE mode. This required another quick "re-dip" of the PLATE. Some folks say a shifting peak like that points to a "soft" 12BY7 driver tube, but since I’m seeing a solid 100 Watts out on 40m and 30m, I’m not ready to convict the driver just yet.

It’s quite a process compared to pushing a button on a modern rig, but there’s a soul to this machine that makes every contact feel earned.


On-Air Performance and Operating Impressions


Voice Operations on 40m

I started by making several Phone contacts on the 40-meter band. Audio reports were positive, and the rig stayed stable on frequency. Before getting on the air, I spent some time balancing the gain between the D-104 microphone and the radio’s internal mic gain. To do this, I monitored the meter in ALC mode while watching the RF output on my dummy load to ensure I wasn't over-driving the gain.

CW Operations on 30m

Moving up to 30 meters for some CW, I sent out a single call—primarily to check my frequency on the Reverse Beacon Network (RBN). I was immediately answered by KB6UN. We had a productive 25-minute ragchew discussing antennas, hamfests, and vintage gear. The TS-830S performed admirably throughout the contact.


Operating Oddities

While the TS-830S is feature-rich compared to my Ten-Tec Century/21 or Heathkit HW-101, it has several design quirks that take some adjustment.

CW Offset and Tuning

On a modern transceiver, the VFO display typically indicates your actual transmit frequency. On the TS-830S, the transmit frequency is offset by 800 Hz from the indicated frequency. This may be common in older gear, but without a digital VFO on my other vintage rigs, the offset is much more apparent here.

Zero-Beating Without a Filter

The sidetone on this rig is fixed at 800 Hz. While you can use the RIT to adjust the listening frequency, you must be careful not to do so until you have zero-beat the other station. Unlike my modern rigs, there is no "spot" function or visual indicator for zero-beating.

On my HW-101, the sharp 250 Hz CW filter helps peak the signal when you are on frequency. Since this TS-830S lacks a narrow CW filter, I have to rely on a manual tone-match:

  1. Switch the gain knob to turn off break-in mode.

  2. Hold down the key to hear the internal 800 Hz sidetone.

  3. Match the pitch of the incoming signal to that sidetone.

Interestingly, the RF meter peaks when the station is not at a zero-beat, so the needle cannot be used as a tuning aid. Additionally, since this radio predates built-in keyers, you’ll need an external unit or a mechanical key. The jack is wired for a standard "tip = dit" configuration.

The AF/Sidetone Conflict

My primary complaint involves the sidetone volume. In this design, the sidetone level is tied directly to the AF (audio frequency) gain control. I prefer to operate with the RF gain turned down and the AF gain turned up to manage band noise, but this makes the sidetone deafeningly loud during transmission.

Currently, I have to manually turn the AF gain down before every transmission and back up to listen. I am planning to research a modification to separate the sidetone level from the main volume control to make CW operation more practical.

Filtering and Narrow-Band Operation

This transceiver predates the era of Digital Signal Processing (DSP), relying entirely on analog circuitry and crystal filters. While the TS-830S offered optional crystal filters for CW, this particular unit is only equipped with the standard SSB crystal filter. There is no digital noise reduction or sharp audio peaking for CW signals.

What this rig does provide—which was likely a novel feature at the time—is a Variable Bandwidth Tuning (VBT) control. This allows you to linearly narrow the IF bandwidth down to approximately 500 Hz with a 6 dB slope. It is certainly not "sharp" by modern standards; even with the bandwidth dialed all the way down, I can still hear stations within 2 kHz of my frequency.

To help manage interference, the radio includes:

  • Adjustable Notch Filter: Useful for knocking down a specific nearby CW carrier.

  • IF Shift: This allows you to move the passband relative to the signal to further reject adjacent QRM.

While these controls are effective for an analog design, they are a far cry from a modern rig like my Yaesu FT-DX10. On the Yaesu, I can achieve a razor-sharp focus on a single CW signal and essentially make the rest of the band disappear. On the hybrid, you are always operating with a much wider "window" into the RF spectrum.

The things I like


Thermal management and fan noise

One thing I immediately noticed about the TS-830S is how quiet the fan is. Despite the fact that the vacuum tubes generate a significant amount of heat—essentially operating at "oven" levels—the fan is variable speed and remains very quiet even when moving a large volume of air.

I have complained about the fan noise on my FT-DX10 numerous times. Operating the Kenwood reminds me of the design choices Yaesu has made with their modern rigs; simply mounting a standard muffin fan on the back is a far less sophisticated solution compared to the integrated thermal design found in this older equipment.


Sound

The TS-830S is technically a dual-conversion transceiver utilizing two intermediate frequencies: 8.83 MHz and 455 kHz. However, its architecture differs from the traditional "Collins type" designs, like the older TS-520. In the TS-830S, the bandwidth of both IF stages is narrowed simultaneously during VBT operation. Because of this specific implementation, it essentially functions like a single-conversion transceiver with an 8.83 MHz IF.

Despite the lack of modern filtering, the receiver is very pleasant to listen to. In fact, other than the volume control issue I mentioned previously, the sidetone on this rig sounds far better than the raspy, digitized sidetone on my Yaesu FT-DX10.

The audio out of the case is excellent.  It has a very good speaker that is well isolated, and can go to high volumes without distorting.  The case itself has felt / damping materials where edges mate with other panels, to reduce resonance.  It is nicely designed. Speaking of the case itself, it is thick metal.  Not car ramp thick, but sturdy, not bendy.

There is a definite appeal to switching off the modern SDR rigs and their "super-filtered" audio. Sometimes it’s worth returning to a simpler design that down-converts RF to the audible range without sending the signal through light-years of digital processing before it reaches your ears.

Little things


Having a built-in power supply is nice, especially since it would require a multi-voltage external supply like my HW-101 if it was not built in.

The controls are well laid out.  After just a couple minutes of operation everything fell to hand without searching for the control

Lastly, the VFO moves with the perfect amount of resistance. For a radio that is 46 years old that doesn't appear to have visited a service center (there are no service stickers), to have a reduction drive geared VFO that operates this smoothly, again speaks to the quality of manufacture of these old Kenwoods.


Conclusions


I plan to spend more time with the rig.  Hopefully, I can record some QSOs so that folks who began operating with more modern rigs can see what it's like to get on the air with these beauties. 

They don't make them like they used to.

This is NOT a QRP rig, so I won't offer my normal "Lower your power and raise your expectations", but I will say "Sometimes traveling the older paths leads you to a new revelation"

That's all for now

73 
AA4OO Rich

Review – BTech APRS-K2 Cable (TRRS/APRS)

by John ‘Miklor’

aprs-k2-25
APRS-K2
It’s long overdue, but there’s finally a TRRS/APRS cable available for radios using a standard Kenwood style K2 connector.

I’ve been wanting to get involved with APRS for a while now, and this made it extremely easy.

APRS-K2 interface cable
The APRS-K2 cable allows you to interface your handheld transceiver with your existing mobile device, including. iPhone, iPad, and Android.

One end of the cable uses the Kenwood style K2 connector, while the opposite end is aprs-xover-25terminated with a TRRS connector. Also included with the APRS-K2 is a Reverse Adapter to insure compatibility with all devices. This adapter allows cable to connect to earlier 3.5MM TRRS standards, such as Nokia.

App Driven
The APRS-K2 cable uses a virtual TNC found in several apps, such as APRSDroid, APRS.fi, and Pocket Packet. Plug in the cable, turn on the VOX, and you’re pretty much set to go.

Product Description
BTECH APRS-K2 TRRS / APRS Cable A simple way to start using APRS by using devices you already own. The BTECH APRS-K2 Cable will quickly connect your radio to APRS by using virtual TNC (app driven) on your tablet or device. The APRS-K2 cable is built with a custom circuit board that will automatically adjust the audio for clear packet transmissions with minimal adjustment; along with protecting your devices from strong over modulated signals.

Along with allowing APRS functionality the APRS-K2 cable can provide a simple interface gateway to allow several features to your radio!

Easily record radio conversations:
By connecting the APRS-K2 cable between your radio and any recording (line-in) device.

Use the APRS-K2 cable as a Mic In Connector:
Set up VOX on your radio to accept any form of incoming audio – such as a Push-to-talk application on a Phone – or a Line-out application from your computer.

Use the APRS-K2 cable to push transmissions over a speaker system:
Easily play audio over a intercom or speaker system from your handheld.

With a backup radio and your own ingenuity, the APRS-K2 cable can serve as an interface for a variety of applications for any amateur. Compatible with Kenwood K2 Accessory Slot Radios (such as BaoFeng, BTECH, Wouxun, TYT) Compatible with all phones, tablets, and computers with 3.5MM Audio In/Out Ports

Includes:
APRS-K2 Cable
Reverse Connector Adapter
Quick Start Guide

Conclusion:

The cable comes with a simple one page instruction sheet which should have you up and running in about 10 minutes after the appropriate app is loaded.
–  Plug in the cable
–  Set your handhelds volume control
–  Turn on the VOX
–  Set your handheld to 144.390 (US)
–  Activate the app

That’s all it takes. If you’ve been considering building an APRS cable, you might find this an easy Plus and Play alternative.

The APRS-K2 can be ordered from   Amazon, or if outside the US, you can go to their website and contact them directly.   Baofeng Tech

Too many toys, too little time.
John ‘Miklor’   K3NXU
http://www.miklor.com


The Baofeng Experience

Last week I cleared the dust out of my blog and podcast websites and briefly discussed ordering the Baofeng UV5RA HT from Amazon.  While this model was released several years ago, Amazon has them available brand new for $26.06.  This includes the HT, charging stand and hands-free kit.  Here’s the link to the Amazon product page for the Baofeng UV5RA HT.

I guess it’s been several years now since these cheaper (I guess less expensive might be the more PC way of describing these) Chinese made hand-held radios came onto the market here in the US.   Fellow hams began showing these off at local club meetings and I began reading reviews of these radios on various amateur radio blog sites from around the world. 

For the most part, the opinions expressed all seemed to have a common theme around pricing, ease of use and durability/reliability.  Many viewed the low cost of ownership to be favorable over any durability issues.  I guess the idea of use it, abuse it and toss it comes to mind.  I also seem to remember a strong sentiment of “steer clear” when discussing these units. 

I could see all sides of the argument.  But I also fully understand some folks just getting into the hobby may be on a limited budget and may not have the resources to afford the latest and greatest from ICOM, Kenwood or Yaesu.  As time went by, I really didn’t hear complaints regarding the durability/reliability of the radios.  But certainly most everyone I spoke to all said that the programming of the radio was often a challenge and the provided user manual was of little to no help.

As for me and my reasons for not entertaining the idea of these cheaper Chinese made radios all boiled down to the fact that I really didn’t need another HT.  I already own more HT’s than I have hands, so I just didn’t see the need.

So what changed?

Last week I was thinking about future topics to discuss on the Practical Amateur Radio Podcast and was researching just how many different HT models were available and the price range.  This research led me to all the usual amateur radio dealers as well as a quick check of Amazon.  I simply searched for Baofeng and that’s when the UV5RA popped up.   With my Amazon Prime membership and a $3.00 credit, I could actually get this HT home for less than $25.00.  Deal! 

I decided I would gain some first hand experience with at least one of these cheaper Chinese made HT’s and share my knowledge with all of you reading this blog and later on the podcast.

Reverse Bait and Switch???

So my package shipped from Amazon as expected and was delivered on Saturday.  I opened the package and inspected the contents.  Immediately I noticed something was different. 

If you look at the Amazon product page for the Baofeng UV5RA you’ll see the photo below.  This is the Baofeng UV5RA.  However, the HT shipped to me looked nothing like this.

image

Instead of receiving the UV5RA (as shown above), I received the UV-82 (shown below). 

image

Initially I was slightly upset.  We’ve ordered a lot of items from Amazon.  While this was my first amateur radio purchase, it was also the first time I didn’t receive exactly what I believed I ordered.  However, after doing a little more research I discovered the following:

First, while the Amazon store page for the Baofeng UV5RA doesn’t match what I actually received.  If you carefully read the product description, under the section “What’s in the Box?” you’ll see the Baofeng UV-82 listed.

Second, from what I understand…the UV-82 is an upgraded (newer) Baofeng hand-held.  If I read this Baofeng product comparison chart correctly, the UV-82 includes an updated PCB, commercial grade case and other enhancements as compared to the UV-5R models.

Third, the UV-5RA is a 4 watt model with the UV-82 offering 5 watts output.

Did I get what I paid for?  Well…not really….but advantage appears to be all mine.  I can’t guarantee what will happen if you order the same model I ordered…but from all appearances you’ll also receive the UV-82.  Just no guarantees.  Alternatively, you can purchase the UV-82 via Amazon (listed as UV-82) for $28.80.  It’s a few dollars more than what is listed on the UV5RA product page, but you’ll be guaranteed to receive the UV-82 if that is the model you desire.

How I plan to use the new radio

Before I go into my initial thoughts/review/feedback (what ever you want to call it), I think I should clarify exactly how I plan to use this new Baofeng UV-82 transceiver. 

This radio is not replacing anything I currently own.  My main go-to HT is the Yaesu VX-8 which I have the GPS module installed.  I also own an older Yaesu VX-6 (which I should probably sell) and also the ICOM IC-92 D-STAR HT which I also rarely use. 

I actually plan to program a few local repeaters, simplex and NOAA weather frequencies into the Baofeng and leave it at my office.  For less than $25.00 I am really just considering this a weather radio that will do a little bit more. 

Initial Thoughts

I’ve had the UV-82 now a few days and feel comfortable in sharing some of my initial thoughts on just what I think of this radio.   I’ll break my thoughts down under a few different categories.

Over all Design

The overall design of the radio (my opinion) is fine.  The radio fits nicely in my hand (not too small, not too big).  It sort of reminds me of an older Nokia cell phone from the time when cell phones weren’t smart.  

Channel Mode/Frequency Mode

If I’m honest, I really dislike having to power the radio off to switch from channel mode back to frequency mode.  While it’s simple enough, just hold down the Menu button while you switch on the radio.   All my other HT’s have a button which toggles between the two modes.  However, as previously stated…this radio will be programmed with a few local repeaters, simplex and NOAA weather frequencies.  For the most part, the radio will be used to listen to weather information from the national weather service. 

Case Quality

While I’ve not taken a hammer to the case (nor do I plan to) and I’ve not performed a drop comparison from the top of my building (I don’t plan to do that either).  The overall case quality appears to match that of my Yaesu rigs.  As I’ve previously stated, the radio fits nicely in my hand.  It’s easy to grip and the included belt clip has a nice firm spring.   While I don’t plan to use this HT as I use  my Yaesu, I also wouldn’t have an issue clipping this onto my belt or pack and heading down the trail. 

Stock Rubber Duck Antenna

What’s In Your Rubber Duck?  Well this was answered by Bob, KØNR and I would highly recommend reading his excellent review where he reveals the “inner workings” of several popular stock rubber duck antennas (including the Baofeng UV-5R). 

But what can really be said about ANY stock rubber duck antenna?  Regardless if the radio brand is Yaesu, ICOM or Baofeng, you will greatly improve the radio by installing an aftermarket antenna.  I use the Diamond SRH77CA on my Yaesu VX-8 and it works great.  But at the moment, I have no plans to replace or upgrade the Baofeng rubber duck. 

Screen

The LCD screen on the UV-82 is slightly smaller than what I’m used to on the Yaesu VX-8.  But to be honest, if I don’t have my reading glasses with me 24×7 these days…and the screen size doesn’t rival the Dallas Cowboys Jumbotron, I’m not able to see anything.  

Dual PTT functionality

The UV-82 features dual PTT switch functionality.  This is a bit odd (compared to my other HT’s).  I suppose in time I will get used to it. 

FM Broadcast Band

If this is something you care about, the UV-82 features a button on the side which switches the radio to the FM Broadcast band. 

Built in Flashlight

If you are in the need of a hand-held amateur radio transceiver WITH a built-in flashlight, then the UV-82 is the rig for you.  A conveniently placed button on the side will turn on/off the flashlight. 

User manual

This is the radios weakest link and is perhaps not worth the paper they used to print it.  It could be written in Chinese and even non-Chinese speakers would obtain as much knowledge by reading it. 

But seriously, the entire user manual is 29 pages long.  Not one page actually covers how to program the radio.  Thankfully YouTube exists and many others before me figured it all out and shared their knowledge.

Ease of Programming

The UV-82 offers 182 different channels which can be programmed (once you figure out how to program them).  Unfortunately, Baofeng (in their infinite wisdom) pre-programmed 20 channels (1-21).  As you can’t edit a pre-programmed channel, you’ll need to delete these which can be done one-by-one in the menu. 

While I believe it might be a daunting task for any brand new ham (or soon-to-be brand new ham) to sit down with an HT, User Manual and Repeater Directory and successfully program the radio.  The Baofeng (unfortunately) really makes it impossible.  This is part of what I was talking about during the Practical Amateur Radio Podcast (episode 70).  As I’ve always recommended the Nifty Ham Radio Guides for ALL radios, I think it is a must have for the Baofeng

Alternatively, if the UV-82 is going to be your primary hand-held and you’ll want/need to reprogram often.  I would highly recommend purchasing the programming software and cable from RT Systems.  While I don’t plan to purchase the the cable/software for the Baofeng, I do own the software and cables for all my other rigs. 

In Summary

While I’ve not discussed each and every feature/benefit of the Baofeng UV-82 in this blog article.  I’ve identified a few key areas which I’ve discovered and most importantly have feedback/opinions on regarding.  More importantly, as I’ve previously mentioned…I don’t plan to heavily use this radio.  But having said that, I also wouldn’t have an issue with clipping it to my belt and heading down the trail either. 

The opinions within our hobby of what makes a great first radio for a beginning ham are strong.  Some are pro the HT and some are against the HT.  If you are just starting out in our wonderful hobby, on a tight budget and looking to pickup a radio which won’t break the budget and allow you to enjoy the hobby…then I certainly recommend the Baofeng UV-82.  After all, the package contains everything (transceiver, antenna and power source) you’ll need to get on the air.  Get your ham radio license and join the fun of the worlds best hobby.

Until next time…

73 de KDØBIK (Jerry)

The Baofeng Experience

Last week I cleared the dust out of my blog and podcast websites and briefly discussed ordering the Baofeng UV5RA HT from Amazon.  While this model was released several years ago, Amazon has them available brand new for $26.06.  This includes the HT, charging stand and hands-free kit.  Here’s the link to the Amazon product page for the Baofeng UV5RA HT.

I guess it’s been several years now since these cheaper (I guess less expensive might be the more PC way of describing these) Chinese made hand-held radios came onto the market here in the US.   Fellow hams began showing these off at local club meetings and I began reading reviews of these radios on various amateur radio blog sites from around the world. 

For the most part, the opinions expressed all seemed to have a common theme around pricing, ease of use and durability/reliability.  Many viewed the low cost of ownership to be favorable over any durability issues.  I guess the idea of use it, abuse it and toss it comes to mind.  I also seem to remember a strong sentiment of “steer clear” when discussing these units. 

I could see all sides of the argument.  But I also fully understand some folks just getting into the hobby may be on a limited budget and may not have the resources to afford the latest and greatest from ICOM, Kenwood or Yaesu.  As time went by, I really didn’t hear complaints regarding the durability/reliability of the radios.  But certainly most everyone I spoke to all said that the programming of the radio was often a challenge and the provided user manual was of little to no help.

As for me and my reasons for not entertaining the idea of these cheaper Chinese made radios all boiled down to the fact that I really didn’t need another HT.  I already own more HT’s than I have hands, so I just didn’t see the need.

So what changed?

Last week I was thinking about future topics to discuss on the Practical Amateur Radio Podcast and was researching just how many different HT models were available and the price range.  This research led me to all the usual amateur radio dealers as well as a quick check of Amazon.  I simply searched for Baofeng and that’s when the UV5RA popped up.   With my Amazon Prime membership and a $3.00 credit, I could actually get this HT home for less than $25.00.  Deal! 

I decided I would gain some first hand experience with at least one of these cheaper Chinese made HT’s and share my knowledge with all of you reading this blog and later on the podcast.

Reverse Bait and Switch???

So my package shipped from Amazon as expected and was delivered on Saturday.  I opened the package and inspected the contents.  Immediately I noticed something was different. 

If you look at the Amazon product page for the Baofeng UV5RA you’ll see the photo below.  This is the Baofeng UV5RA.  However, the HT shipped to me looked nothing like this.

image

Instead of receiving the UV5RA (as shown above), I received the UV-82 (shown below). 

image

Initially I was slightly upset.  We’ve ordered a lot of items from Amazon.  While this was my first amateur radio purchase, it was also the first time I didn’t receive exactly what I believed I ordered.  However, after doing a little more research I discovered the following:

First, while the Amazon store page for the Baofeng UV5RA doesn’t match what I actually received.  If you carefully read the product description, under the section “What’s in the Box?” you’ll see the Baofeng UV-82 listed.

Second, from what I understand…the UV-82 is an upgraded (newer) Baofeng hand-held.  If I read this Baofeng product comparison chart correctly, the UV-82 includes an updated PCB, commercial grade case and other enhancements as compared to the UV-5R models.

Third, the UV-5RA is a 4 watt model with the UV-82 offering 5 watts output.

Did I get what I paid for?  Well…not really….but advantage appears to be all mine.  I can’t guarantee what will happen if you order the same model I ordered…but from all appearances you’ll also receive the UV-82.  Just no guarantees.  Alternatively, you can purchase the UV-82 via Amazon (listed as UV-82) for $28.80.  It’s a few dollars more than what is listed on the UV5RA product page, but you’ll be guaranteed to receive the UV-82 if that is the model you desire.

How I plan to use the new radio

Before I go into my initial thoughts/review/feedback (what ever you want to call it), I think I should clarify exactly how I plan to use this new Baofeng UV-82 transceiver. 

This radio is not replacing anything I currently own.  My main go-to HT is the Yaesu VX-8 which I have the GPS module installed.  I also own an older Yaesu VX-6 (which I should probably sell) and also the ICOM IC-92 D-STAR HT which I also rarely use. 

I actually plan to program a few local repeaters, simplex and NOAA weather frequencies into the Baofeng and leave it at my office.  For less than $25.00 I am really just considering this a weather radio that will do a little bit more. 

Initial Thoughts

I’ve had the UV-82 now a few days and feel comfortable in sharing some of my initial thoughts on just what I think of this radio.   I’ll break my thoughts down under a few different categories.

Over all Design

The overall design of the radio (my opinion) is fine.  The radio fits nicely in my hand (not too small, not too big).  It sort of reminds me of an older Nokia cell phone from the time when cell phones weren’t smart.  

Channel Mode/Frequency Mode

If I’m honest, I really dislike having to power the radio off to switch from channel mode back to frequency mode.  While it’s simple enough, just hold down the Menu button while you switch on the radio.   All my other HT’s have a button which toggles between the two modes.  However, as previously stated…this radio will be programmed with a few local repeaters, simplex and NOAA weather frequencies.  For the most part, the radio will be used to listen to weather information from the national weather service. 

Case Quality

While I’ve not taken a hammer to the case (nor do I plan to) and I’ve not performed a drop comparison from the top of my building (I don’t plan to do that either).  The overall case quality appears to match that of my Yaesu rigs.  As I’ve previously stated, the radio fits nicely in my hand.  It’s easy to grip and the included belt clip has a nice firm spring.   While I don’t plan to use this HT as I use  my Yaesu, I also wouldn’t have an issue clipping this onto my belt or pack and heading down the trail. 

Stock Rubber Duck Antenna

What’s In Your Rubber Duck?  Well this was answered by Bob, KØNR and I would highly recommend reading his excellent review where he reveals the “inner workings” of several popular stock rubber duck antennas (including the Baofeng UV-5R). 

But what can really be said about ANY stock rubber duck antenna?  Regardless if the radio brand is Yaesu, ICOM or Baofeng, you will greatly improve the radio by installing an aftermarket antenna.  I use the Diamond SRH77CA on my Yaesu VX-8 and it works great.  But at the moment, I have no plans to replace or upgrade the Baofeng rubber duck. 

Screen

The LCD screen on the UV-82 is slightly smaller than what I’m used to on the Yaesu VX-8.  But to be honest, if I don’t have my reading glasses with me 24×7 these days…and the screen size doesn’t rival the Dallas Cowboys Jumbotron, I’m not able to see anything.  

Dual PTT functionality

The UV-82 features dual PTT switch functionality.  This is a bit odd (compared to my other HT’s).  I suppose in time I will get used to it. 

FM Broadcast Band

If this is something you care about, the UV-82 features a button on the side which switches the radio to the FM Broadcast band. 

Built in Flashlight

If you are in the need of a hand-held amateur radio transceiver WITH a built-in flashlight, then the UV-82 is the rig for you.  A conveniently placed button on the side will turn on/off the flashlight. 

User manual

This is the radios weakest link and is perhaps not worth the paper they used to print it.  It could be written in Chinese and even non-Chinese speakers would obtain as much knowledge by reading it. 

But seriously, the entire user manual is 29 pages long.  Not one page actually covers how to program the radio.  Thankfully YouTube exists and many others before me figured it all out and shared their knowledge.

Ease of Programming

The UV-82 offers 182 different channels which can be programmed (once you figure out how to program them).  Unfortunately, Baofeng (in their infinite wisdom) pre-programmed 20 channels (1-21).  As you can’t edit a pre-programmed channel, you’ll need to delete these which can be done one-by-one in the menu. 

While I believe it might be a daunting task for any brand new ham (or soon-to-be brand new ham) to sit down with an HT, User Manual and Repeater Directory and successfully program the radio.  The Baofeng (unfortunately) really makes it impossible.  This is part of what I was talking about during the Practical Amateur Radio Podcast (episode 70).  As I’ve always recommended the Nifty Ham Radio Guides for ALL radios, I think it is a must have for the Baofeng

Alternatively, if the UV-82 is going to be your primary hand-held and you’ll want/need to reprogram often.  I would highly recommend purchasing the programming software and cable from RT Systems.  While I don’t plan to purchase the the cable/software for the Baofeng, I do own the software and cables for all my other rigs. 

In Summary

While I’ve not discussed each and every feature/benefit of the Baofeng UV-82 in this blog article.  I’ve identified a few key areas which I’ve discovered and most importantly have feedback/opinions on regarding.  More importantly, as I’ve previously mentioned…I don’t plan to heavily use this radio.  But having said that, I also wouldn’t have an issue with clipping it to my belt and heading down the trail either. 

The opinions within our hobby of what makes a great first radio for a beginning ham are strong.  Some are pro the HT and some are against the HT.  If you are just starting out in our wonderful hobby, on a tight budget and looking to pickup a radio which won’t break the budget and allow you to enjoy the hobby…then I certainly recommend the Baofeng UV-82.  After all, the package contains everything (transceiver, antenna and power source) you’ll need to get on the air.  Get your ham radio license and join the fun of the worlds best hobby.

Until next time…

73 de KDØBIK (Jerry)

LHS Episode #143: Erin Go Bragh

erin-go-braghIt's another lonely episode without Pete. We're still not sure if he was eaten by a bear or not, but we hope he's well wherever he might be. In the meantime, we put together what we hope is an enjoyable and informative episode with information on Yaesu System Fusion, bluetooth configuration in Linux, the LXLE distribution, PyQSO and more.

73 de The LHS Guys

An editorial about the current state of Amateur Radio manufacturing

A reader sent this comment on my post about Heathkit’s demise:

“It would be a limited customer base, as with all the China crap coming in
hard to compete. Also noticed that they are selling 2mt/440 ht’s and
advertising that you do not need a license!!!look for interference to
public service and emergency com, reports against amateur radio, going
to be a tough nut to crack”

I have to disagree.  First of all, some of the “crap” from China is actually pretty good, and giving the “big 3” some serious competition.  You know, there was a time, back in the early seventies when everyone referred to the influx of Japanese-manufactured electronics as crap too.  I remember this first-hand, as my interest in SW and AM DXing started in 1972.  Look where that has gone.  The Japanese are now the manufacturers of choice for our radios.  Now, I cannot say that all of these new low cost radios are good (first-hand experience with a radio from FDC backs that up for me), but the BaoFeng UV-3R has set a new bar for value in a low-cost mini HT, as well as the highly-regarded Wouxun radios.  It should be interesting as these companies evolve.  Mobile radios are just starting to trickle in now, and who knows what’s next.  Outside of radio, what about smartphones?  Where are most of them made?

I watched this same thing happen with Shortwave receivers over the last decade.  Companies like Degen, Tecsun, and Kchibo, first got into this market by being the manufacturers for labels like Grundig-Eton.  The early radios were not good, but then a funny thing happened.  The engineers listened to the public and made changes.  They adjusted the performance and feature-set of these radios based on what the users were asking for.  This is something that their predecessors never did.  Sony, Panasonic, Philips, and even Taiwan’s Sangean, rarely made changes based on the enthusiasts comments and reviews.  The result is that some of the best performing portable SW receivers for the money now come from China.  Panasonic, and Magnavox, are out of the market here.  Sony only makes one viable offering now, and Sangean continues to get mediocre reviews, after such a promising start.  I personally own a few Tecsun, and Degen radios and although the build quality is not quite as good as the Sony, it’s VERY close now.

As far as selling to the non-licensed public, that problem has always existed.  I don’t think that you were required to produce a license to buy any of the HTX radios at Radio Shack in the eighties and nineties, as well as the various commercial offerings they had.  You were told by the packaging, and again in the manuals that you were required to have a license.  Very few people at hamfests and flea markets ask for licenses before taking the cash from their potential customers.  Add to that garage sales, and classified ads, and you can see that the ability to buy un-authorized radio equipment has always been there.  Recent experience with jamming in my area led me to a small history lesson while investigating the source of the interference.  This has been going on for a VERY long time, and you’d be surprised how much of the problem is caused by licensed Hams.

Craigslist, and eBay have made this easier, yes, and I believe that the equipment being sold should at least be restricted to its intended purpose (limiting Xmit frequencies for Amateur equipment), but we will never stop the sale of equipment to the unlicensed public, just as we will never stop music and software pirating.

The biggest travesty here is the existing players not recognizing the changing market.  Kenwood’s new rig is gorgeous, but is another multi-thousand dollar rig what this hobby needs?  What the HF side of the hobby needs is a competent, basic 160-10 (or 6) transceiver that can keep the interest of a newly licensed ham going, with a target sell price UNDER $500.  50-100 watts would be ok at this price-point, with the option of adding some power later.  I honestly feel that if Kenwood, Yaesu, and Icom don’t wake up, and adjust to the changing market, they might go the way of the classic Shortwave manufacturers.

Sorry for the long editorial, but this is a sensitive subject for me.  I have only been a ham for 9 months, and with all of the obligations I have, and trying to make sure there’s something left for retirement, plunking down $1000 on a radio at the moment is out of the question.  Many of our new hams are in this same position.  Instead of having most of us stay as Technicians, it would be nice to get these new hams interested in something other than their newly acquired VHF/UHF privileges.  A General ticket is a fairly small step from Technician, and having some economical starter radios would help

Some of the kits, in my Kit Roundup post fit the bill, but most are CW kits.  The SSB kits available are usually low power.  There are a couple of examples with a bit more power, but fully assembled the price is already in the Alinco DX-SR8 range.  Having said that, the Alinco is probably the closest rig to what I’m thinking of price-wise, but seems to get rather mediocre reviews.  I guess for $519 you can’t be all that picky.

This is all my own opinion of course.  Feel free to discuss in the comments.

–Neil W2NDG


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