Getting My Radio Fix – QRP Portable Today!
I was finally able to sneak off at lunch time for some quick portable QRP op’s with the KX3 and my Portable QRP Antenna from the local park.
I did a quick scan of the bands when I got there, and made one quick contact with a mobile station…
N7IV/M 14.056 599 both ways. I am not exactly sure where he was, but had a little pileup going. (UPDATE: I found him on APRS – I appears he was in Wisconsin)
Then I decided to just plant myself on a frequency and call CQ to see what happened. I spotted myself on Twitter hoping to maybe make contact with a Twitter follower. VA3QV sent me a Tweet and said he was listening but could not hear me.
But I did manage to get some replies to my CQ on 14.057!
W4FO Pat in Florida
KD3CA Don in Pennsylvania
W9DCQ Doug in Wisconsin
WD9DWE Dennis in Indiana
Thanks for the QSO’s guys!
I then decided to spin the dial a bit. I heard W1AW/0 in ND, but could not break the pileup. It sounded like he was working some DX but I could not hear the DX.
Then I went to 17 meters and worked…
W1AW/8 in Ohio – it took a bit to bust the pileup, but I finally made it!
So a fun lunch hour on the radio today! Thanks to everyone that worked me, and to those on Twitter that tried to work me. It was a fun adventure.
Here is where I was spotted by RBN:
Burke Jones, NØHYD, is a regular contributor to AmateurRadio.com and writes from Kansas, USA. Contact him at [email protected].
Getting My Radio Fix – QRP Portable Today!
I was finally able to sneak off at lunch time for some quick portable QRP op’s with the KX3 and my Portable QRP Antenna from the local park.
I did a quick scan of the bands when I got there, and made one quick contact with a mobile station…
N7IV/M 14.056 599 both ways. I am not exactly sure where he was, but had a little pileup going. (UPDATE: I found him on APRS – I appears he was in Wisconsin)
Then I decided to just plant myself on a frequency and call CQ to see what happened. I spotted myself on Twitter hoping to maybe make contact with a Twitter follower. VA3QV sent me a Tweet and said he was listening but could not hear me.
But I did manage to get some replies to my CQ on 14.057!
W4FO Pat in Florida
KD3CA Don in Pennsylvania
W9DCQ Doug in Wisconsin
WD9DWE Dennis in Indiana
Thanks for the QSO’s guys!
I then decided to spin the dial a bit. I heard W1AW/0 in ND, but could not break the pileup. It sounded like he was working some DX but I could not hear the DX.
Then I went to 17 meters and worked…
W1AW/8 in Ohio – it took a bit to bust the pileup, but I finally made it!
So a fun lunch hour on the radio today! Thanks to everyone that worked me, and to those on Twitter that tried to work me. It was a fun adventure.
Here is where I was spotted by RBN:
Burke Jones, NØHYD, is a regular contributor to AmateurRadio.com and writes from Kansas, USA. Contact him at [email protected].
The list of projects is huge!
I have been having serious radio withdrawal – I am really itching to get on the air and operate! Unfortunately, life is happening and I have had zero time to operate.
When this happens I usually watch a lot of videos and read blogs. This then leads a big list of “I wanna do that” type projects.
So I thought I would list the top 3 or 4 here and set a goal of getting them done by Christmas:
1. Get a long wire inverted L 9:1 UNUN antenna installed at the house. I have the UNUN built and I have the small gauge “stealthy” wire from the Wire Man – just need to get it up in the trees!
2. Rockmite 40 – I have had this kit along with the Mitybox for several years – just need to get it built.
3. DIY Powerpole Distribution Block – There are some great plans for this here: http://www.qsl.net/wd4bis/connect.htm
4. Magnetic loop antenna with automatic controller. I have the board, just need some components to get the board built up and working – I really want to get this going early this fall!
The list is much longer – but this is the top four I want to get done right now.
What is on your project list?
Burke Jones, NØHYD, is a regular contributor to AmateurRadio.com and writes from Kansas, USA. Contact him at [email protected].
The list of projects is huge!
I have been having serious radio withdrawal – I am really itching to get on the air and operate! Unfortunately, life is happening and I have had zero time to operate.
When this happens I usually watch a lot of videos and read blogs. This then leads a big list of “I wanna do that” type projects.
So I thought I would list the top 3 or 4 here and set a goal of getting them done by Christmas:
1. Get a long wire inverted L 9:1 UNUN antenna installed at the house. I have the UNUN built and I have the small gauge “stealthy” wire from the Wire Man – just need to get it up in the trees!
2. Rockmite 40 – I have had this kit along with the Mitybox for several years – just need to get it built.
3. DIY Powerpole Distribution Block – There are some great plans for this here: http://www.qsl.net/wd4bis/connect.htm
4. Magnetic loop antenna with automatic controller. I have the board, just need some components to get the board built up and working – I really want to get this going early this fall!
The list is much longer – but this is the top four I want to get done right now.
What is on your project list?
Burke Jones, NØHYD, is a regular contributor to AmateurRadio.com and writes from Kansas, USA. Contact him at [email protected].
On Making Nanowaves – Part 5

The next step was to use John's design to mount the receiver and transmitter modules so they could be locked into position once aligned properly. His system used the 1/4" split shaft locking mechanism removed from an old Allen-Bradley potentiometer to hold a short length of rod fastened to the module's case.

This allowed the shaft to be moved forward and backward for focus while the slot in the mounting plate allowed for vertical centering. The plate mounting mechanism itself allowed for lateral centering. This system allowed for the locking of the receiver's photodiode at the exact focal point of the fresnel lens.The same scheme was employed for the transmitter's LED as well, since accurate focusing was critical there also.
In order to focus as much of the LED's light onto the primary fresnel lens, a small inexpensive (secondary) collimating lens was required. This assured that the fresnel was properly illuminated out to its edges and no further. Any light spilling over the edges of the fresnel would just be wasted.
Our particular fresnel had an effective aperture of 260mm and a focal length of 200mm, producing an F-number (f/D ratio) of .76.... Clint suggested that our collimating lens should have an F-number of ~ 1 - 1.2 and be a PMN (Positive MeNiscus) type and that we hedge our bets by trying lenses above and below that value. Ideally the collimator should be at least 25mm in diameter for ease of mounting and, when perfectly illuminating the fresnel, be as close to the LED as possible, if not touching it. Just placing a less than ideal secondary too close to the LED would end up over-illuminating the fresnel, while having it too far away would under-illuminate it.
Accordingly, four small glass collimating lens of various F-numbers were purchased from Surplus Shed at around $4 each. Each lens was then mounted on a drilled-out piece of PCB material using 'JB Weld'.
Once cleaned-up, the lens board was then positioned directly over the center of the LED on a machine-screw carriage mount. The carriage allowed the lens to be locked into position once it was correctly positioned. All four lenses were tested to see which one would correctly illuminate the fresnel while still being as close to the LED as possible.

The eventual winning secondary lens was #L10016 (.9 f/D) which allowed for a sharp and fully-illuminated fresnel while being just a few millimeters above the LED.
The next step was to adjust the entire LED and secondary carriage for the sharpest focus on a distant flat surface. This was done over a distance of about 200' and was a fairly fine adjustment.
Once done, it was actually possible to see the two fine wires connecting to the LED die on the distant projected image.
With the final focusing taken care of, the tone modulator and MOSFET LED driver were installed. This used an IRF540 switching FET, driven by the digital tone signal to control the current through the LED.
All we could do now was patiently wait for a nice clear evening to put the system to work.
Steve McDonald, VE7SL, is a regular contributor to AmateurRadio.com and writes from British Columbia, Canada. Contact him at [email protected].
This post is going to get me into trouble!
"Seems when the bands are down every person with a ‘bug’ is out calling cq. Wish they would put code oscillators and dummie loads on sale. Dits at 20 wpm and dahs at 5 wpm."
I guess it's not directly related to band conditions, and I'm not sure that John's claim is 1,000,000% accurate, however - he makes an excellent point.
Not to dump on bug users, because I have a bug. I like using a bug. Using a straight key makes the arthritis in my hands go "Hey! Stop that!" But unless I've practiced with my bug (off the air) for a while .... my sending can be pretty bad. So I try to make it a point to take the KX3 "off the air" and practice sending with my bug on a regular basis. Not as regularly as I should, but I try to keep in decent practice.
I agree with John and I would posit that listening to someone use a bug (or even a straight key or paddles, for that matter), who doesn't know how to use it properly, is akin to listening to nails being scratched across a blackboard. NB: For any younger readers, a blackboard is what we used in school before the advent of whiteboards and smartboards. If you scrape your fingernails across the surface of a blackboard, it makes a sound unlike anything you've ever heard. It literally hurts to listen to it. It will make your teeth ache. There's something about human fingernails and slate that just don't mix. Listening to someone scratch a balloon is almost as bad. But .... I digress.
The phrase, "Dits at 20 wpm and dahs at 5 wpm" resonated with me. Morse Code sent like that is not only unreadable - even worse, it's unbearable. No one is asking that all Morse be sent so that it sounds like it's coming from a keyer or a computer - but for Pete's sake - at least make sure your sending is copyable!
I would suggest that anyone who is inclined to use a bug perform this little exercise. Send some Morse and record it, either with a tape recorder (do they still make those?), or, I believe most smartphones have a voice recorder feature. Do it off the air. Either send your RF into a dummy load or turn off your "VOX" - that usually will put your rig into code practice oscillator mode.
Send some Morse, listen to it, and copy what you sent. Be honest and critical with yourself. If you can honestly copy what you've sent, then you're probably good enough to go live. It might even be a good idea to wait a day or two between the sending part and the listening to yourself part - just in order to make it a bit more objective.
I can tell you for a fact, that I have done this - I have listened to my own bug fist - and have said, "Oh my!". It was a rude, but necessary awakening. I am totally glad that I did not subject my fellow Hams to what I had thought was decent sending.
72 de Larry W2LJ
QRP - When you care to send the very least!
Larry Makoski, W2LJ, is a regular contributor to AmateurRadio.com and writes from New Jersey, USA. Contact him at [email protected].
LNR Precision 5 band HF transceiver – the LD-5
Steve G1KQH has found a link to this new transceiver https://www.facebook.com/pages/LnR-Precision-Inc/229134337165152?hc_location=timeline. It looks a bit like the Elecraft KX3 but I hope it is much less expensive as it only covers 5 bands on TX.
LNR are the people that make the Par line of antennas now. They hope to start taking orders in September. Apparently they had quality issues in China with the 4-band version.
Roger Lapthorn, G3XBM, is a regular contributor to AmateurRadio.com and writes from Cambridge, England.



















