Time for antenna work.

 

Before the DX Engineering radial plate

The vertical antenna I have is the Hustler 4BTV, which gives me 10–40m, and I am very happy with its performance. One shortfall for me is the method this antenna uses to fasten the ground radials. At the base of the antenna, there are two stainless steel nuts and bolts. All the radials are bunched together and fastened to one of the two nuts and bolts. The antenna works just fine this way, but for me, I wanted something better.

In my search, I found the DX Engineering radial plate. The plate is stainless steel, and it comes with 20 nuts, bolts, lock washers, and washers. If you are securing the plate to a metal post, as I was, you need to order a clamp as well. When the plate arrived, I was very impressed with the detail and its weight. It is a very high-quality product. 

Radials removed 

The first order of business was to take the Hustler 4BTV down and then remove the antenna mounting bracket. This would allow me to place the new radial plate over the mounting post and secure it. Once that was done, I then reattached the Hustler 4BTV mounting bracket to the mounting post as well. The antenna mounting bracket and the new radial plate connect via the metal mounting post.

As this mounting post is a fence post and can become corroded from exposure to the weather, I installed two jumpers from the antenna mounting bracket to the new radial plate. I then connected the ground rod cable to the plate. From there, it was simply a matter of securing all the radials to the new plate. 

New plate and bracket installed

While I was doing this, I decided to take the cover off the Balun Designs 1:1 balun to see how it looked. As you can see from the picture in my post, it looks brand new.

1:1 Balun 
Then I put gravel and stone around the base of the antenna to cover the plate and add some neatness to the installation. The antenna was then installed back onto the antenna base bracket. I checked the SWR, and it had not changed.

Radials installed 

 New jumpers installed 

 


 

Mike Weir, VE9KK, is a regular contributor to AmateurRadio.com and writes from New Brunswick, Canada. Contact him at [email protected].

6 Responses to “Time for antenna work.”

  • david horner n5utv:

    I see so many of these manufactured over priced gadgets. Its a shame people will pay $45 and more for a metal plate with a bunch of holes drilled in it. Guess it comes from the generation that cant change the oil or a tire on their car.

  • Mike VE9KK:

    Good morning, David, and thanks for taking the time to read the post and leave a comment.

    Yes, many things these days are overpriced, and even more so now with the silly tariffs. I did, however, price out a 1/8‑inch stainless steel plate that was 12×12, as well as a quality stainless‑steel drill bit. The cost for the plate was $60.00, plus a $15.00 cutting charge. The bit was anywhere from $22.00 to $35.00, as I needed to drill about 25–30 holes. So, with tax here in New Brunswick, Canada, my cost before I did anything was $110.58, tax in—and that was with the cheapest drill bit.

    But wait, there’s more. The DX Engineering plate came with hardware as well: a set of 20. I priced the hardware (1/4‑20 bolt, nut, flat washer, and lock washer). The lowest I could get that down to was $2.25 per set. To keep it fair, let’s price out only 20; that came to 51.30 tax in. Add that to $110.58, and the grand total is 161.88. Then I had to gerry‑mander some way to secure it to my antenna post.

    So, David, there’s a little more to it than just a “metal plate.” My generation (Baby Boomers) has changed its fair share of tires and oil, but we also look at the big picture when it comes to money outlay. Sometimes it’s cheaper to purchase than to make it. In my case, this was not just an oil change or tire swap.
    73 and have a great week,
    Mike
    VE9KK

  • Phil K7TTI:

    Mike,

    Nice photos and write-up. I have the same antenna and feel it should work a lot better than it does. Is it possible to send me the counterpoise length(s) you use as I think it is where my problem is. I’ve tried all sorts of lengths and even chicken wire but nothing seems to work very well. QRZ has my email.

    Thanks, and 73

    Phil K7TTI

  • Mike VE9KK:

    Good afternoon Phil, thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. I have had very good results with the antenna. Yes the radials are a very important part. I have sent your via your qrz email address the info you asked for. I have read that using chicken wire is not the way to go. Let me know if you have any other questions.
    73,
    Mike
    VE9KK

  • Rick W5RH:

    Mike, Nice practical article. But, I am interested in where you read that chicken wire was not the way to go. My experience is different, but always interested in an opposite view.
    TNX ES 73…Rck W5RH.

  • Mike VE9KK:

    Good afternoon Rick and thanks for stopping by and also leaving a question. From my reading chicken wire is galvanized steel. Being on or in the ground it can disintegrate over a few years and then needs to be replaced. It is hard to get a good conection to the antenna as galvanized steel will rust over time and give you a high resistance connection. For a vertical that has 40 and 80m a large area of mesh is needed, compared to cut copper radials. Finally steel has high RF resistance compared to copper. This is only from my readings and you may get better millage with chicken wire.
    Thanks again for the question and have a good week.
    73,
    Mike
    VE9KK

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